Vanilla - Is it
Worth its New Price?
One of the great comforts
derived from food is that it can provide a refuge from other worlds - political, social, work. However, these worlds sometimes
intrude into the culinary world, as we're seeing now in the dramatic increase in the price of vanilla. The political upheaval
in Madagascar - one of the world's major vanilla producers - is currently limiting
vanilla supply and has resulted in a 25% price increase. So does vanilla - a pantry staple we've all taken for granted -justify
its new price?
First, some background.
The vanilla bean is the only edible fruit of the orchid family. The vanilla orchid was originally cultivated in Mexico, where Cortez discovered it. Today, most of the world's vanilla comes from Madagascar
and India with Mexico
supplying some U.S. requirements. Of 150
types of vanilla orchids, only two plants, Bourbon and Tahitian, yield commercial vanilla seeds.
Vanilla is a very labor-intensive
product. The orchid blossoms open only one day a year, and the plant has to be hand pollinated in that short time frame. After
harvesting, the vanilla bean flavor must be developed by several months of treatment. So natural vanilla is inherently expensive.
Over the last 100 years, there has been a lot of effort to find synthetic vanillas, currently 97% of all vanilla consumed
worldwide is now synthetic.
In the market, there are
four types of natural vanilla labeled by geographical origin - Bourbon (named for the Bourbon islands, not for the liquor),
Mexican, Indonesian, and Tahitian. There are slight taste variations among these. Most notably, Mexican vanilla has a spicy
taste. Tahitian vanilla has less vanilla flavor, is sweeter and fruitier, but is rarer and more expensive.
Whatever the origin, the
most common form of natural vanilla found in stores is vanilla extract, which is created by soaking the vanilla bean in a
solution of 35% ethyl alcohol. You can also find pure, natural vanilla, which is vanilla in a glycerin base, and is a reasonable
alternative to vanilla extract if the use of alcohol is problematic.
The other two vanilla
products you will find in stores are labeled vanilla flavoring, which is a blend of natural and synthetic vanillas, or imitation
vanilla, which is wholly synthetic. Most imitation vanilla is derived from a by-product of the paper industry called sulfite
liquor, or, alternatively, is a coal tar derivative.
Finally, less common but
available, are whole vanilla beans. Incidentally, French Vanilla is not a kind of vanilla, but refers to an egg custard based
ice cream.
The exploding price of
vanilla raises two issues. First, is the price of natural vanilla worth the cost, or is imitation acceptable? Secondly, how
do you prevent being ripped off by adulterated natural vanilla?
To answer the first question,
we need to look at what vanilla does in cooking. Vanilla is an antacid - try adding it to tomato sauce to cut the acidity
in tomatoes. It is a flavor booster, especially in anything with a chocolate component. It is an emulsifier, smoothing out
sauces and custards. Vanilla is a natural sweetener. Finally, it brings a unique flavor to whatever it is added to.
To maximize all of these
uses, you need to use natural vanilla over the artificial form. Natural vanilla has over 400 different compounds that contribute
to each of these functions. Artificial vanilla has only one compound - vanillin - and it provides flavor that is both weaker
and less complex and has a bitter after taste compared to natural vanilla.
The price is easier to
swallow when you realize that natural vanilla has wonderful staying and recycling uses. Vanilla extract has an almost limitless
shelf life, if kept in a dark, cool place. Vanilla beans can be used over again. Try putting a used (washed and dried) vanilla
bean in sugar or in coffee, and leaving it for a week. The flavor will be effectively transferred. Or put a vanilla bean in
a jar with ¾ cup of Vodka, leave for six months, and make your own vanilla liqueur/extract.
Secondly, how do you tell
if the natural vanilla is of the highest quality? Look at the price - vanilla extract should exceed $1.70 an ounce or $25.00
a pint. Look at the label - there should be a minimal amount of additional sugar, which can hide off flavors. Finally, it
should have a rich full aroma.
Be especially careful
when buying Mexican vanilla - it should be from a reputable source. Some Mexican vanilla has coumarin added, a toxic substance
banned by the FDA.
Vanilla beans should have
a rich full aroma, be oily to the touch, and sleek in appearance. Any bean without a scent, or is smoky, brittle, dry, or
mildewed, should be left alone. I have found the best source for vanilla (and for other spices) to be Penzeys Spices, (www.penzeys.com). Currently, a one pint bottle of their single strength vanilla is $34.99;
a one pint bottle of their double strength or two-fold vanilla (which professional bakers use) is $48.99.
In a recent Penzeys catalog,
there is a recipe for a Vanilla Fruit Smoothie, (which I've modified slightly), which shows that vanilla is not just for baking.
To get an idea of how vanilla can provide a flavor boost, taste the smoothie both before and after adding the vanilla:
½ cup orange juice
½ cup plain low-fat yogurt
1 ripe banana
1/3 cup frozen peaches
1/3 cup frozen strawberries
1/3 cup frozen raspberries
1 tsp. double strength
pure vanilla extract
To quote the catalog,
"blend the heck out of it".
