Tuna - Earning New Respect

Why do we say "tuna fish" when we don't say "salmon fish" or "mackerel fish"? I haven't answered that question, but I have started treating tuna with a lot more respect. We'll discuss tuna in three forms: canned, cooked fresh tuna, and raw/semi-raw tuna.

Tuna is a saltwater migratory fish found in both the Atlantic and Pacific. There are several varieties, ranging in size from the 1,500 pound bluefin to the 12 pound skipjack. Uncooked tuna is red due to its muscle pigments - tuna swims continuously over large distances - but the color ranges from albacore's pink flesh to the dark, almost purple flesh of bonito and skipjack. Cooked tuna is white.

Fresh tuna often has a very dark streak in it - this is the actual muscle. It has a strong taste that may seem too intense for some and can be cut away. Tuna's an oily fish, like salmon, but with the same Omega-3 oils fatty acids that have proven to be heart healthy.

The primary health concern with tuna is mercury content; however, tuna is well monitored by safety officers. The FDA considers tuna safe, although pregnant and nursing women are cautioned not to eat more than 12 ounces a week.

Canned or Pouched Tuna

• Tuna comes in three grades based on chunk size: solid or fancy, chunk, and flaked.
• Canned tuna, the old familiar staple, now comes in vacuum-sealed pouches.
• Water packed tuna makes up 85% of tuna sold. The traditional oil-packed version is out of favor for caloric reasons. You can find canned tuna packed in its own juices.
• Canned or pouched tuna may be labeled "white", i.e. from the lighter fleshed albacore variety, or "light", which is usually yellowfin or skipjack tuna.
• The big 3 U.S. producers, Star-Kist, Chicken of the Sea, and BumbleBee are facing increased competition from high grade European brands, especially those from Italy and Spain.

So how do you choose which tuna to buy?  First, match the grade to the purpose; i.e. solid is only necessary if the tuna chunks are needed for a salad. Chunk is fine for tuna salad. Flaked is usually inferior tuna; I don't buy it.

Tuna canned in water is so tasteless it shouldn't be purchased. If you're calorie conscious, there are two tasty alternatives. The cheaper is the new vacuum pouch. Tuna packed in pouches is processed in half the time than canned, leaving the fish firmer and fresher tasting.  The second, more expensive, but even tastier alternative is tuna packed in its own juices with only a little salt added. These produced by smaller Pacific NW makers like Great American Smokehouse and Katy's Smokehouse.

Tuna packed in oil is much tastier than tuna packed in water, especially if you're going to serve tuna without mayonnaise, e.g. in a Nicoise salad. And even if you're going to add mayonnaise, these tunas can be so flavorful you'll need to add a lot less, saving on calories and enhancing flavor.

When choosing oil packed tuna, investigate the European brands which are packed in olive oil. American tuna is packed in vegetable oil, which adds little flavor and destroys texture. The best Italian or any canned tuna is called Ventresca, which means from the belly.

Canned or pouched tuna is still a great pantry staple. Canned tuna will last four years; pouched tuna up to two years. And opened tuna can be frozen, in a freezer bag. On its website, Star-Kist gives you their aging code in the FAQ section; you can tell the packing date from the code.

Cooked Tuna:

You'll find two types of fresh tuna in many fish stores. The more expensive type is usually labeled sushi grade but can also be called tuna loin or tuna belly. This tuna is designated for the raw or almost raw preparations described below. The less expensive tuna makes a great grilled or broiled steak.  If you have a choice of species, in general, the darker the color, the more intense the flavor.

Tuna is a quick cooking fish as the flesh firms up quite fast and then becomes dry - it cooks like swordfish. And also like swordfish, being in a marinade for up to 2 hours before being cooked enhances the flavor, as does being served with chutneys or flavored butters. Buy steaks cut about an inch thick - they'll need about 10 minutes on the grill, 5 minutes per side.

Raw/Semi Raw Tuna:

The classic raw tuna dish is sashimi, i.e. raw tuna slices or sushi, i.e. raw tuna served with seasoned rice in bite-sized pieces. If you have access to a Japanese or Asian market that sells sushi-grade tuna - tuna is called magura in Japan - you may find your choices include turo cuts. Turo means belly in Japan, and is the part of the fish from which the best sushi is made. Ootoro is the best belly section, chu-turo less so.

If totally raw tuna is not your cup of tea, try the following:

§         Marinade a sushi-grade tuna steak in soy sauce for 2 hours in the refrigerator.

§         Roll the steak in sesame seeds, patting them on both sides.

§         Heat a heavy bottom skillet to high heat; add 1-tablespoon peanut or canola oil.

§         Sear the tuna steak in the hot oil until the sesame seeds are brown, turning once, (2-3 minutes per side).

§         Serve and slice.