History is full of great disputes - the conquests of the Roman Empire, the Napoleanic Wars, and the debate whether to stuff the Thanksgiving turkey or cook the stuffing on the side, thereby renaming it dressing. For many years I was a die-hard stuffer but I've finally been converted to dressing.

Stuffing proponents insist that the only way to get the inimitable flavor from the internal turkey droppings is to stuff. They claim further that stuffing ensures a properly moist dish and that it conserves valuable oven space. Dressing proponents, however, argue that it is impossible to cook stuffing to a safe temperature - 165 degrees - without overcooking the turkey. This not only harms the bird, but adds precious time to the roasting process.

For several years, I attempted to compromise. I would wait until my stuffed turkey was cooked, transfer the stuffing from the turkey to a casserole dish and finish cooking it in the oven. There were two problems. The meal is not wholly safe as some stuffing inevitably remains in the turkey and it would remain undercooked. I was also adding one more cooking step to an already packed cooking day.

So I decided to really give dressing a try. In the process, I learned that dressing can taste great and is also a palette for culinary creativity.

I will first confess to a short cut. I start with Pepperidge Farm's herb seasoned stuffing. Purists insist that you need to make your own bread, or at least buy French bread to make the bread cubes or crumbs. But Pepperidge Farm offers dried bread that meets most requirements and they have figured out how to blend the herbs perfectly through the crumbs. If you want to enhance a particular herb you can ads a little additional. This shortcut saves the cook a lot of work.

There are only two real adjustments needed to convert stuffing to dressing. Listed on the back of your bag of stuffing is the required amount of fat, usually butter, and the liquid you should use. First, increase the amount of liquid called for. If the proportions call for one cup of liquid, plan on two. The additional liquid doesn't have to be chicken stock or water, see below for other suggestions.

Now you need to compensate for the missing turkey drippings. Add the maximum fat the bag requires one e.g. one stick (4 ounces) of butter for the 16-ounce bag. Additionally, add three beaten eggs. These steps will produce a tasty dressing by themselves, but there are some additional options. I add the turkey drippings not used for the gravy. Bacon fat can add a lot of flavor. Sausage adds richness, whether or not you add the rendered fat.

Once the dressing is mixed, cooking time and temperature is flexible  -the only requirement is to reach an internal 165 temperature. The dish can cook at any temperature from 325 to 425 degrees. Cook the dressing initially covered to recreate the moist internal turkey atmosphere. Remove the lid during the last 15 minutes of cooking if you'd like a crisp top.

The Pepperidge Farm people estimate that cooking time is about 30 minutes at 325 degrees. Since any roasted turkey requires a 20 minute rest period and the turkey will then take 10 minutes to carve, you can bake the dressing in the oven after the turkey has been removed. If you want to do this, I'd advise using a 13 x 9 inch casserole to maximize surface exposure, and keep the casserole covered throughout the cooking process. If you like a crisp top, you can run it under the broiler or use a kitchen torch right at the end.

The following describes one approach to making dressing. This recipe uses a 16-ounce bag of stuffing - the amount suggested for 10-12 servings.

In a small bowl, add ¾ - 1 cup of dried fruit like raisins, chopped apricots, prunes, or dried cranberries to two cups of liquid. Set aside and allow them to plump. The liquid can be warm water, warm cider, liquor, or any combination. I personally use one cup of cider and one cup of rum with raisins and cranberries. Port, Grand Marnier, and brandy are also good liquor options.

Warm two cups of chicken stock in a safe measuring cup in the microwave, or in a pan.

Chop one large onion, two stalks of celery, and two apples of any kind you like into bite sized pieces. Melt one stick or 1/2 cup of butter in a skillet. On low heat, sauté the onion, celery, and apple in the butter until the onion is translucent, but not brown.

Transfer everything in the pan to a large bowl. If you want sausage in your dressing, use the same skillet to cook ½ pound of sausage. When browned, add the sausage to the bowl, with or without the fat.

Add the bread to the bowl, along with the two cups of warm chicken stock. Beat the three eggs in a small bowl and add to the dressing. Drain the fruit, reserving the liquid. Stir in the plumped fruit. Add enough of the plumped fruit liquid to make a moist but not soupy mixture. If necessary, add more stock.

Transfer the mixture to a greased casserole. You can use a deep casserole if you prefer mostly moist dressing with a small amount of crispy topping, or use a 9" x 13" casserole if you want to maximize the crispy topping. Cover and bake in a 325 degree oven for 30 minutes or until the internal temperature is 165 degrees. If the top is not crisp enough, run it under the boiler.

Other good additions include toasted nuts and chestnuts, as well as the zest of an orange or lemon.