There's a popular fund raising game where you guess the number of candies or coins that are in a large jar. For an interesting variation, guess the number of bubbles in a bottle of sparkling wine. The winning guess will be the one closest to 56,000,000.

Of course sparklers have traditionally been used as a celebration beverage. But it's time to remove the special occasion/Valentine's Day label from sparkling wine and serve it more often. Tasty sparkling wines are now available from all over the world and good choices can be found for under $20.00. Also, sparkling wines have an affinity for foods notoriously hard to match with wines, like spicy Asian cuisine from Thailand, India and China, as well as the increasingly popular sushi.

To make an appealing choice, it is necessary to learn some nomenclature. First, the word "champagne" is usually reserved only for sparkling wine made in the Champagne region of Northern France. The term "sparkling wine" is all inclusive and does not mean cheap champagne.

Second, most sparkling wine is not cloyingly sweet - the level of dryness can be read on the label. Bone dry champagne is labeled Extra Brut, Brut Nature or Brut Sauvage. Dry champagne is Brut, medium dry champagne is Extra Dry, and slightly sweet champagne is Sec.

It is best to buy sparkling wine by the producer's name. Some producers make sparkling wine by the traditional methode champenoise method, others by the charmat method - this will be indicated on the label. The traditional methode champenoise production requires that the second fermentation (when the bubbles are created) occurs in the bottle.

The charmat method is a faster way to produce sparkling wine as the second fermentation occurs in large tanks before bottling. These sparkling wines will be relatively inexpensive and less complex as they require less labor and will be sold younger.

Besides indicating the method, the producer's name will indicate the wine's style. Sparkling wine is a blend of up to 5 different types of grapes, and can involve up to 60 different batches of grapes from different harvests, vineyards, etc. Vintage champagne only means that all the grapes were produced in the same year. Each producer tries to reproduce the same style each year. So once you've found a producer you like, youll have a pretty good idea of what each bottle will taste like.

Interestingly, the world of champagne has become both bigger and smaller. Many countries besides France now produce good to great sparkling wines, especially Italy, the U.S., Spain, Australia, and South Africa. This development has often been driven by French and Spanish investments. California producers such as Iron Horse, Roederer, Pacific Echo, Mumm Cuvee Napa, Domaine Carneros, and Domaine Chandon have French ownership, while Gloria Ferrer and Cordorniu Napa are owned by the Spanish. These names assure both quality and consistent style.

If you prefer independent U.S. sparklers, look at California's Jordan J brand or the Schramsberg label, also New York's Chateau Frank and Fox Run are attractive. Less expensive California alternatives include Kornel and Korbel.

Outside the U.S., if you want to stay with the traditional sparklers, less prestigious but often superlative sparkling French wines come from the Loire Valley - a sparkling Vouvray can be wonderful.

For an upper grade Italian sparkling wine, find one made in Lombardy -look for Bellavista, Ca del Bosco, or Cavalleri. Three other possibilities include Green Point from Australia (owned by Chandon), a Schlumberger sparkler from Austria, and any bottle from South Africa labeled Cap Classique.

For everyday sparkling wines, I would suggest considering wines from either Italy or Spain. In Italy, there are three reliable sparklers. There are two inexpensive, charmat produced style wines. Asti from Piedmont was formerly called Asti Spumante - "spumante" means sparkling in Italian - but it became too associated with sugary, cheap generic spumantes. Under the name Asti, it is now an improved wine, and is made by such well-known names as Cinzano and Martini & Rossi.

Proseccos from Venice are dry and fruity - the Zardetto Prosecco is commonly available here. The Spanish also produce less expensive sparklers that are still fermented in the bottle; sparklers in Spain are called  Cava. The most readily available producers are Freixenet and Codorniu.

It is also important to get rid of some misconceptions. First, there is no scientific basis correlating the quality of the champagne with bubble size. All bubbles will stimulate the nose and tongue and, when burst, release flavors and aromas.

Secondly, to maximize flavor, use flutes or regular wineglasses - do not use the saucer shaped glasses of the movies. The bubbles will dissipate too quickly and the champagne will warm up too fast. Champagne should be kept between 45 and 52 degrees.

Third, do not dramatically pop the cork. Not only is it dangerous, (a champagne bottle is under the same atmospheric pressure as a truck tire - 6 atmospheres), but you will lose effervescence and some liquid. Rather, holding the bottle at a 45-degree angle aimed away from anything you don't want to hit, gently twist the bottle. Twist one way with one hand and, using a towel to cover the cork, twist the cork the other way with the other hand. The cork should come out with a gentle sigh.