Season to Taste: Demystifying salt and pepper

In my previous column (Season to Taste, A Defense of Salt), I discussed why proper seasoning, specifically salt and pepper, is so important to cooking. This column will address the types of salt and pepper available, and when to choose which type.

Salt is packaged in three basic styles:

§         Table salt is the most common style; it is finely ground rock salt. Rock salt is mined from underground deposits left by previous oceans. Table salt usually has additives, especially iodine and anti-caking materials. These additives can give it a sharp or chemical taste. Because the grain surface is relatively smooth, table salt adheres poorly to food and dissolves slowly. Table salt is inexpensive.

§         Kosher salt is also rock salt, but it is ground coarsely and is additive free. Due to its large, jagged grain surface, Kosher salt adheres well to foods. The Diamond brand (not Morton) also dissolves quickly due to a difference in the grinding process. Without additives, Kosher salt is pure tasting and is also inexpensive. Because of its large grains, a teaspoon (or tablespoon, etc.) of Kosher salt will be less salty in a cooked dish than an equal quantity of a fine grain salt.

§         Sea salt is made from allowing seawater to evaporate, leaving the salt crystals behind. It can be finely or coarsely ground, and is usually additive free. Sea salt retains some of the minerals found in seawater. Some users claim it tastes fresher and is more flavorful than rock salt.

     Although sea salt will always be more expensive due to the difference in harvesting costs, the difference in cost can be moderate to large. Some sea salts have become designer salts (i.e. branded based on their origin), and can be very expensive. Fleur de sel from France is a popular item in gourmet catalogs. Fans of sea salt often claim that the mineral content makes sea salt healthier, but as it contains only trace minerals, this is debatable.

Most professional chefs use Kosher salt for almost all their cooking needs, except where fine measurement is useful as in baking. Its large crystals make Kosher salt easy to pick up and add by hand. Because the crystals dissolves fast, the cook can taste for salt almost immediately. For table usage or baking, finely grained sea salt has a pure taste, and it need not be one of the expensive designer brands. Use a taste test to see if brands make a difference to you.

Since Kosher and sea salts are additive free, keep them in a cool, airtight container. If caking is a problem, add a few grains of rice. Salt, however, does not go stale, so it can be stored indefinitely.

Pepper is marketed in four common versions.

§         Black pepper is generated from not quite ripe fruits from the pepperbush. These are fermented (developing their black color), and dried at a moderate temperature.

§         White pepper comes from the same fruit, but is allowed to fully ripen. Its outer hull is removed.

§         Green peppercorns, also from the same fruit, are harvested when still very unripe. They are not fermented, however, and are either pickled or quick dried.

§         Pink peppercorns do not come from the pepper bush, but are unrelated berries which are freeze dried or packed in brine.

Black pepper is the pepper of choice except in certain specific circumstances. White pepper is hotter, but has less flavor as it loses certain aroma compounds when it ripens. Some chefs never use it, while other use it primarily to avoid black specks in lightly colored cream soups or sauces.

Green peppercorns are used for their unique flavor; they only have a mild pungency and a slightly herbal flavor. They can be added whole, having an impact much like capers. Pink peppercorns are usually added in a peppermill for appearance; they have a mild flavor and can cause illness in large quantities.

There are two varieties of pepper to look for. Malabar is the best of the mass-produced peppercorns, while Tellicherry is considered more flavorful. In any event, pepper loses its pungency and flavor fast, so using only freshly ground pepper will make a significant difference in the taste of your finished dishes.