Season To Taste: A Defense of Salt

In so many recipes, the author throws out the remark, "season to taste", as though this is a minor instruction. Combined with our fear of salt created over the years by the health establishment, it's no surprise that adding salt and pepper to a dish is often neglected. Yet proper seasoning is crucial to good cooking; it is often the key difference between the merely competent and the really good cook.

I wont attempt to address the health issues; for a good summary of recent pros and cons, see http://www.fda.gov/fdac/features/1997/797_salt.html). However, over 75% of all salt consumed is in processed foods; not what is added during cooking or at the table. So by adding basic pantry staples which are no salt added or by using fresh foods and learning to season properly, your dishes will taste a lot better without adding additional salt to your over-all diet.

Take two examples. Heat up one cup of regular chicken stock (which has about 1 teaspoon of salt in it). Heat up one cup of no-salt chicken stock. In the no-salt stock, add a bay leaf, thyme, and parsley (tied up with string in a little bundle if using fresh herbs, or tied up in cheesecloth if using dried). Simmer for 15 minutes, and then add salt to taste.

Or do the same test with canned salted whole tomatoes and no salt added tomatoes, adding basil or oregano if desired. The flavors will be more intense with your own seasoned items. Further, stock and tomatoes are usually added to other ingredients that may or may not have salt already, so your own seasoning gives you more control over salt intake.

Part of why salt is undervalued is that we often don't appreciate all it does in the kitchen. Yes, salt is a basic taste (along with sweetness, bitterness, and acidity) but it does a lot more:

- Salt added to anything will draw out moisture, (as seen in salt cod, gravlax, or hams), and intensify flavor.

- A small amount of salt (usually not more than ¼ of a teaspoon) will enhance sweetness, which is why it's added to baked desserts.

- Too much salt will inhibit yeast development in breads, but a small amount actually strengthens the gluten and provides structure.

- Salt lowers the freezing point of a liquid and increases the boiling temperature. So if you want something to chill fast, like a bottle of wine or hot soup, put it in a salt-water bath. If you want to make sure that pasta strands will not stick together and are not gummy, add them to salted, rapidly boiling water.

My next column, called "Season to Taste, Part 2" will discuss types of salt and pepper. But first, two more kitchen tips that will make a world of difference in your cooking:

- As salt is better disseminated when added during the cooking process and not at the end, heavily salt your pasta water, at least 1 ½ tablespoons for each pound of pasta (similar to ocean water if you've ever swallowed any). Your pasta will taste great even without a sauce.

- And next time you roast a chicken, put it in a bowl or large freezer bag with a solution of ½ cup of kosher salt and 2 quarts of water. You can add ¼ cup of brown or white sugar as well. Let it sit in the brine for several hours, (around 1 hour/pound). Rinse and roast. Your chicken will be moist and very flavorful. (This does not apply to Kosher chickens, e.g. Empire, which are actually pre-brined).

One final word of caution. If you add salt to a liquid that is going to cook for a long time, the salt flavor will intensify as the liquid evaporates. So be conservative with adding salt to soups and sauces when you're starting them, and salt to taste at the end.