Salmon - King of Versatility

With all this snow, I can't help but dream of spring. And I associate spring with Salmon. Salmon is one of those special foods which seems sophisticated, yet it's reasonably priced and marries well with subtle and robust flavors alike. Below are two ways to prepare salmon - a simple sauté with a vigorous sauce, and gravlax, which shows how easily and inexpensively you can prepare a luxury food.

There are six kinds of available salmon. Five swim in the Pacific. The two to know are King or Chinook, which is the most highly prized wild salmon, and sockeye or red which is the best canned salmon. Atlantic salmon is almost entirely raised in aquafarms in Europe, South America, or the U.S. East Coast.

Farmed salmon is controversial. Many environmentalists believe that farming salmon causes pollution and spreads illness when escaped salmon mate with wild salmon. Aquafarmers refute these arguments, both statistically and by noting the layers of regulation and permits under which they operate. Most chefs consider wild salmon to have better texture and flavor. However, over half of the world's salmon supply today is farmed, and farmed salmon may be the only type available and/or affordable.

Salmon is usually bought precut in one of two ways. Steaks are cut through the center bone, leaving one round segment with two little tails. For a premium, many stores sell steaks with the tails tucked around each other and tied to form medallions, which cook more evenly and make for a neater presentation. Alternatively, you can buy salmon in fillets, either skinned or unskinned. Salmon skin is edible and fillets with the skin on will hold their shape better.

With either cut, remove the pin bones that can be found in a straight line down the center of the salmon. Needle-nosed pliers are effective, as are a good pair of tweezers. Run your finger down the center and the bones will be easy to feel.

Salmon is easy to cook because it is a relatively fatty fish with healthy, Omega 3 fats. It can be cooked fast in a hot pan with no added fat. For a quick dinner, follow the following recipe modified from a Jacques Pepin recipe:

8 ounces salmon fillet, skin on

Salt to taste

2 teaspoons butter

¼ cup chopped onions or shallots

2 teaspoons capers

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

Choose a medium, non-stick sauté pan with a tight fitting lid. Heat the pan using medium high heat until the pan is very hot. Place the fillet of salmon, skin side down, in the pan and immediately cover. Cook for 5 to 7 minutes, until the tip of a knife can flake the upper layer of the salmon. Remove the salmon to a heated plate and cover with foil to keep warm.

Pour off any fat; then add the butter to the hot pan. Add the onion and cook for a minute, then add the capers and cook another minute. Finish by adding the lemon juice, pour the sauce over the salmon, and serve immediately.

Gravlax, a luxury item usually served as an appetizer, is raw salmon marinated in a dry cure of salt, sugar, and dill. The name means "salmon from the grave" referring to the Swedish practice of burying cured salmon in the ground to preserve it. It is simple to make, although you do need to start four days before serving.

A 3 pound salmon fillet, with the skin on

2 Tablespoons salt

1 Tablespoon sugar

4 Tablespoons Cognac or Vodka, optional

Fresh dill, at least 1 cup packed

Cut the salmon fillet in half, crossways. Place one fillet, skin side down, on a piece of cheesecloth or plastic wrap. Place the other fillet, also skin side down, next to the first fillet.  Mix the salt and sugar in a small bowl, and work the mixture into the top of both pieces. Sprinkle on the Cognac or vodka, if using. Layer all the dill on the salmon piece lying on the cloth. Place the other salmon fillet on top of the dill, so that the skin is exposed, making a dill sandwich.

With the cheesecloth or plastic wrap, wrap the two pieces together. Put the salmon package on a pan with an edge to hold the liquid that will exude. If using cheesecloth, cover the container with plastic wrap. Lay a board or any flat object on top of the salmon, and pile on heavy objects, like cans or a brick. Since you're going to keep this in the refrigerator, I usually just pile on containers already in the refrigerator.

Turn the salmon every 24 hours and baste with any exuded liquid. Taste a small piece after two days to see if you want any additional salt or sugar - this recipe makes a lightly salted gravlax. To serve, slice the filet very thinly on the diagonal down to, but not through, the skin.

Gravlax can be personalized to match individual preference, using more salt, sugar, or other types of liquor.