Absorbing Rice

Alton Brown, one of my favorite chefs, states that there should be only one single purpose appliance in the kitchen - a fire extinguisher. This is a mantra I have tried to follow. But I came into a rice cooker recently and became a convert. Not only am I cooking rice far more frequently, my cooker is encouraging me to experiment and play with different rices, (you can also use quite successfully for other grains).

Americans eat far less rice than the rest of the world - about 21 pounds/year, versus Asians who eat up to 300 pounds/year. Part of the reason is that rice has a reputation for being hard to cook. Our perfect rice is supposed to be fluffy, with each grain separate and glossy. Without a rice cooker, this can be tricky. But dishes such as risotto (creamy rice) and sushi (sticky rice) illustrate that rice can be cooked a variety of ways and still be delicious.

Given the popularity of such ethnic dishes, different types and varieties of rice are now readily available. The labels can be confusing unless you understand that rice is first categorized by types and then labeled by varieties. In the U.S., we first sort all varieties of rice into three types: short, medium, and long grain. Elsewhere, rice is considered to be either short or long grain. To achieve the fluffy, independent grains of TV commercials, you need long grain rice. To achieve either the creamy or sticky rice of Italy and Asia, you need a short grain rice.

Rice is also labeled based on processing. Brown rice is any variety of rice which still has its outside bran hull. When cooked, brown rice will be chewier, firmer textured, and with a nuttier flavor than the same variety cooked as white rice, e.g. without the hull.

Converted rice is white rice that has been parboiled. It is a little more nutritious than plain white rice as the parboiling drives some of the nutrients into the rice before the hull is removed. Also, cooked converted rice will be a little fluffier than regular white rice.

Instant rice is white rice that has been completely cooked and then dehydrated.

Within these types, there are numerous varieties of rice available. The most common rice in the U.S. is a long grain, white rice, either just labeled as "rice" or called "Carolina rice" though it is now largely grown in Texas, Arkansas, and California. It is relatively bland, cooks fluffy and is excellent in casseroles, soups, and stews where it will absorb flavor.

Gaining in popularity are several long grain varieties grouped as aromatic rice. These rices exude various perfumes when cooked, and have a nuttier flavor than plain rice. They are a good choice if you're serving rice as a side dish. These include:

- Basmati - a fragrant, nutty variety which is used especially in India. It is the rice of choice for pilafs and Indian biryanis.

- Jasmine - also a fragrant, long grain variety that can be interchanged with Basmati;supposedly has a jasmine scent.

- Texami - a Basmati variety grown in Texas; some chefs believe it doesn't have quite the same flavor as Basmati from India.

- Wehani - a Basmati hybrid with a nutty flavor.

- Wild Pecan - it has a nutty, pecan flavor.

Also newly popular are several short grained rice varieties. These have specialized uses as they exude more starch when cooked, becoming sticky. Included are:

- Arborio - the rice most often specified in making risotto. Risotto is made by adding stock to the rice in small amounts, stirring all the while. This procedure makes risotto's creamy, moist texture from the exuded starch.

- Carnaroli - a lesser known Italian rice which some prefer to Arborio when making risotto.

- Vialone Nano -  also a good risotto rice.

- Black Rice - when cooked, this is really sticky and is prized in the Far East for puddings and cakes.

- Sushi Rice - often called sticky rice or glutinous rice, although rice has no gluten. Because it is easily picked up by chopsticks or rolled into sushi, this is the most popular Far Eastern rice.

In a separate category is wild rice, which isn't rice at all, but rather a different grain.

Per Cooks Illustrated, do not rinse white rice if it originates in the U.S. or Europe, where impurities are removed and nutrients are added. Rinsing removes those enrichments. Brown rice, as well as white rice originating in Asia and Latin America, should be rinsed.

To get fluffy rice, use long grain rice, and put a tablespoon of oil in the water, along with salt. Do not stir the rice once it starts to cook as this will release the starch. After the rice has finished absorbing all the water, remove the pan from the heat. Quickly remove the lid and put a towel or two layers of paper towels over the top of the pot, and put the lid back on. Allow the rice to sit for another 10 - 15 minutes -this absorbs extra water and prevents condensation.

Alternatively, to get either fluffy or sticky rice perfectly cooked, and then kept warm, use a rice cooker. The rice cooker does not work by timing, rather it reduces the cooking temperature to warm when there is no longer any water in the pot - it will keep the rice warm for several hours.