The Potato - Humble but Cherished

Despite being called the most important vegetable in the world, as well as being the first vegetable to be grown in space, the potato is customarily seen in the U.S. as a humble side dish. However, at 99.9% fat free, the potato is so nutrient dense it can serve almost as a sole food source. Notwithstanding its basic nature, cooking with potatoes can be confusing, as there are an ever-increasing number of available varieties.

When considering a potato, it is easiest to assign it to one of four categories. The first type is the new potato. This can be any variety, but it has to be a small, tender skinned potato harvested when the plant still has green foliage, i.e. before the natural sugar in the potato has been converted to starch. Be careful, just because a potato is small and round, it is not necessarily new. New potatoes are so sweet and delicious there's really only way to do them justice  - boil them, (see below for basic instructions), drain, roll them in butter and chopped parsley, and serve.

The other three categories concern mature potatoes, and are based on starch content. High starch potatoes (also called mealy) cook up to have a glistening appearance and a dry fluffy texture. These are the best potatoes for baking or mashing. The classic high starch potatoes usually have the name Russet or Idaho, but they can be simply called baking potatoes.

Low starch potatoes (also called waxy) cook to a smooth, creamy, and moist texture. While called all-purpose, these are truly best for boiling, steaming, scalloping, stews, and potato salad. Both red and white round potatoes, as well as long white potatoes, are low starch potatoes.

Recently there has been an explosion of specialty type, medium starch potatoes, often in a variety of colors. The fashionable fingerling, Yukon Gold, and Yellow Finn are all medium starch potatoes. These are truly more all-purpose than low starch potatoes. They have enough starch to be good bakers and mashers, but will still hold together after boiling to make good potato salad. The really exotic, expensive potatoes like purple ones from Peru and ruby crescents from Europe are also medium starched. They're really not worth extra money as the color usually dissipates in cooking. The best bet in these specialty types is the golden to tan skinned potatoes - they have a firm consistency, pronounced flavor, and sweetness.

If you're uncertain about the starch content, cut the potato in half. Rub the two halves together - the starch will show up as a white froth. Stick the halves back together and hold up the potato. If the halves stay together, it's a high starch potato.

Now for some basic cooking advice:

Baking: Using either high or medium starch potatoes, bake at 400 degrees for about an hour, (an extra fifteen minutes will not hurt). Never wrap in aluminum foil, which produces a soggy interior with wet skin. Before baking, pierce the skin in several places to allow the steam to escape. There is a difference of opinion whether or not to oil (or spray with Pam) the skin before baking. Oiling results in a crisper and darker skin which I prefer, but it's a matter of taste. Oiled potatoes will cook a little faster.

Boiling: If you choose to peel boiling potatoes - which isn't necessary but may be preferable to avoid bits of skin in the finished dish - keep the skinned potatoes in water for up to 2 hours before cooking. This avoids discoloration. Cut the larger potatoes to match the size of the smallest, so they can cook in the same amount of time. Put the potatoes in a heavy pot with enough cold water to cover by 2 inches. Add salt, about 1 teaspoon per quart of water. Bring to a boil, lower the heat to a gentle boil, and cook until the potatoes are tender in the middle when pierced with a knife. New potatoes (which should never be peeled) will take 7 - 15 minutes, regular potatoes 25 - 30 minutes. Do not drain, as this could crush the potatoes, but remove with a slotted spoon onto a towel.

Roasting: Either slice high starch potatoes, or halve medium starch potatoes (do not peel). Toss with olive oil, salt and pepper, and any optional seasonings like cayenne pepper, fresh herbs, minced garlic. Line a flat baking pan with aluminum foil, and coat with oil (or spray with Pam). Put the potatoes, cut side down on the foil, and bake at 450 degrees. Check at about 20 minutes. If you can move the potato easily, then a crust has formed and the potato should be turned over. After turning, cook another 10 minutes for so until the potato is soft and the other side is browned.

Finally, some potato trivia:

ü       When buying potatoes, select well-formed, smooth, firm potatoes without any cracks, bruises, or soft spots.

ü       Never store potatoes in the refrigerator, Keep in a cool, dry place for up to 3 months. Do not wash until ready to use.

ü       Keep the skin on to maximize the potatos nutrient content - almost all of the Vitamin C is right below the skin.

ü       Never mash potatoes in a food processor - you will get glue. You can use an electric beater to mash high starch potatoes.

ü       A greenish section on a potato is caused by excess exposure to light. The section should be cut away as it will be bitter and slightly toxic. Do the same with any sprouts.

ü       Some people think leftover potatoes are best. I highly recommend them for making potato pancakes or a fritatta for breakfast.

ü       Do not try to plant potatoes from the grocery store - these are usually treated to delay sprouting. Instead, buy seed potatoes that are grown specifically for planting.