The Gentle Art of Poaching

So many cooking techniques are vigorous and forceful - searing, roasting, trussing,  beating, that it is relaxing to reflect on a gentle cooking technique. Poaching refers to cooking food entirely submerged in liquid; the temperature of which is maintained just below the boiling point so that the liquid's surface is gently quivering.  Poaching provides a delicate transfer of flavors to and from the poaching liquid to the food being cooked.

Poaching is a relative of braising, where most often a meat item is cooked by being partially submerged in a simmering liquid, which is maintained at the temperature necessary to break down the muscle's connective tissue. However, poaching is performed in liquid that is both kept below the simmer and entirely covers the food. It is appropriate for tender foods such as fruit, eggs, chicken, and fish.

The technique for poaching is simple; sample recipes for specific foods are included below. First, bring the poaching liquid just to a boil. Add the item to be poached, which will immediately reduce the liquid's temperature below the boil. In many cases like chicken breasts, all you need to do then is cover the pot, remove it from the heat, and let the food item cook through in the residual heat. For large items, like whole chickens, whole fish, or harder fruit, the temperature is maintained below a simmer until the food has finished cooking.

While poaching is not an aggressive cooking style, it can still impart a lot of flavor, primarily through the choice of poaching liquid. Besides water, you can use any combination of stock, wine, fruit juices, sugar syrups, other liquors, whatever is appropriate. To the base liquid, you can add herbs, spices, or other flavorings. And once you have cooked the primary food item, you are left with a wonderfully flavored broth that can form a soup base or be reduced to make a sauce.

Fruit:

To prepare a good, basic poaching liquid for fruit, combine 1 quart water, 1 cup sugar, 1 cinnamon stick, and 2 cloves in a saucepan large enough to contain the fruit. Bring the liquid to a boil and allow it to simmer at least five minutes. Add the fruit, reduce the heat to maintain the liquid below a simmer, and poach until knifepoint tender.

Pears are a classic fruit to poach. For pears, use 2 cups water and 2 cups red wine instead of 1-quart water. Either peel the pear entirely or peel only the top half. Clean out the seeds and core from the blossom end - the fat end - using a melon baller or small spoon. Stuff the holes with honeyed nuts and cream cheese. Put the pear, standing upright, in enough boiling liquid to cover entirely, and immediately reduce the heat so the liquid's surface shimmers. Cook until tender, usually 20-30 minutes. Allow the pears to cool in the liquid.

The liquid, which is now flavored sugar syrup, can be reduced after the fruit has been removed to make an excellent sauce for the pears or an ice cream topping.

Eggs:

Use the freshest possible eggs. In a shallow pan, add about two inches of water and 1 Tablespoon of vinegar per each quart of water - the vinegar helps the egg white set rapidly. When the water is at a strong simmer, crack the egg open as close as possible to the surface of the water, and allow it to slide in. The first egg will cool the water to the proper temperature for the other eggs. When all the eggs have been added, cover the pan, and remove from the heat.

After 4-5 minutes, test for doneness by picking up an egg with a slotted spoon and see if the white is set. Gently feel the top of the yolk, which should still be soft. Store the cooked eggs in a bowl of cold water until needed; to reheat, simply submerge in hot water. If you are nervous about the shape of your eggs, you can buy perforated egg poachers that are submerged in the water and constrain the eggs from spreading. Kitchenetc, www.kitchenetc.com sells an insert for $3.99.

Fish and Chicken Fillets:

Make a classic poaching liquid called a court bouillon. To six cups of water, add 1 large sliced onion, 1 large sliced carrot, 1 large sliced leek, 1 sliced celery rib, 1 cup of wine, and an herb package called a bouquet garni. A bouquet garni is traditionally composed of 12 parsley sprigs, 2 sprigs of fresh thyme, and 1 bay leaf all tied together. For fish, you can also add several fennel leaves.

Simmer the court bouillon for half an hour; if you like, add 6 peppercorns during the last five minutes. Strain. Bring the strained liquid back to the boil, add the fish fillets, cover the pot, remove from the heat, and allow to cook approximately 10 minutes for each one inch depth of the fillets.

Whole Chicken:

To poach a whole 4 pound chicken, put the chicken in a pot large enough to comfortably hold it.  Add 10 cups water, 1 cup wine, 4 sliced carrots, 4 sliced celery ribs, 1 large sliced leek, one onion studded with 4 cloves, and the same bouquet garni described above. Add more water if necessary to completely cover the chicken. If the chicken wants to float upwards, keep it submerged with a plate, colander, or steam steamer basket.

Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to barely below a simmer and cook for 20 minutes. Then, cover the chicken with a lid, and turn off the heat. Allow the pot to sit, covered, for one additional hour.