Classic French cooking
employs a technique called "en papillote" - a phrase that used in a recipe title can scare off many cooks. So when Reynolds
Aluminum began marketing the en papillote technique as a way to sell aluminum foil, they used the name "packet cooking". Whichever
label you prefer, this is a great culinary technique to understand. Packet cooking is easy, creates an impressive table presentation,
produces a dish that can be deliciously low fat, and leaves minimal cleanup requirements.
The concept is to entirely
enclose the food in a bag or packet that will allow the food to baste in its own juices - or some minimal amount of added
liquid or fat - while steaming in the oven. The process allows the food to stay moist and enhances any natural sweetness.
The packet is served on a plate at the table; when the packet is cut open, the diner experiences a wonderfully concentrated
aroma. The food is eaten from the packet and the residue is thrown away.
The classic foods used
in packet cooking are lean, quick cooking items such as chicken breasts, fish fillets, or vegetables. These are usually combined
with herbs, supporting vegetables, and perhaps some flavoring such as a few tablespoons of wine or a touch of butter. A sample
recipe is supplied below.
There are three
types of manmade material used to make packets, and the choice is up to the cook all three materials work equally well. Of
course, tamales wrapped in corn husks and poi wrapped in banana leaves are also a form of packet cooking.
Of the manmade material,
parchment paper is the traditional material used. Parchment paper is heavy paper specially treated to have a smooth and impermeable
surface that resists moisture and grease. It is most commonly seen as liners for baking sheets or cake pans. As long as it
does not directly touch a flame, parchment paper can survive high heat.
The basis for the
name en papillote - which translates as "butterfly"- is the way the parchment paper is cut to form the package. A large piece
of the parchment is folded in half. Then the edges are cut to form half a heart shape - it will look like a full heart or
the wings of a butterfly when unfolded. The food is put in the center of one of the halves and the opposite edges are folded
over and crimped together. Julia Child uses pins to seal the edges.
Many people find it easier
to use aluminum foil. Reynolds now sells precut aluminum packets for this purpose. Otherwise, a 12" x 18" piece of foil is
laid out, with the food in the middle. The sides are brought up and double folded. The ends are then folded to seal the pocket.
A school lunch bag also
makes an excellent packet - just fold down the top and pin.
With all of these materials,
there are two keys to successful packet cooking. The first is to seal the edges tightly so steam can not escape. The second
is to leave room inside the packet to allow air to circulate and the packet to expand. Jacque Pepin inserts a straw into the
last corner of the packet to be crimped, and blows the packet up before removing the straw and sealing the corner.
Preparation of the food
is largely the same for any food item. Butter or oil the inside of the packet where the food will rest. A 4-6 ounce piece
of chicken or fish is sandwiched between two layers of vegetables or herb sprigs. The vegetables are either very thinly sliced
or precooked slightly. If desired, a little liquid or butter is added to the top. The packets are placed on a baking sheet,
a little oil is brushed on the top of the packet, and the pan is put in the oven.
Chicken is usually cooked
at 400 degrees for 20 - 25 minutes, while fish is cooked at 425 degrees for a time period dictated by thickness. A one-inch
thick fish fillet is cooked for 10 minutes. The bag should be very puffy and brown when the dish is done, if not using foil.
To make absolutely certain the dish is done, one corner can be unsealed - do not allow the steam to burn you - and an instant
thermometer inserted. Chicken is done at 165 - 170 degrees; fish at 145 - 150 degrees. Remove the packets onto a plate, and
cut an X shape in the top and peel back the corners, again watching the steam.
The following recipe illustrates
this technique, and is especially good with tilapia:
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4-6 ounce fish fillet
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1 small tomato, diced
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½ red pepper, in small (1/4) cubes
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1 sprig of thyme
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1 sprig of tarragon
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1 chopped shallot
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2 T white wine or chicken broth
Brush the bottom of the
packet with a little olive oil. Put the tomato and red pepper on the brushed surface. Layer the fillet on top of the vegetables.
Place the shallot, thyme, and tarragon on top. Seal and bake in a 425 oven for 10 15 minutes; 10 minutes if 1 thick or less.