Frodo-s Favorite - the
Mushroom
In honor of one of my
all time favorite books and now movie - The Lord of the Rings - I thought I'd discuss hobbit's favorite food, i.e. mushrooms.
Mushroom,in a culinary sense, basically means edible fungi. A large variety of mushrooms are now available in stores and,
given the extravagant prices some carry, it is worthwhile to become better acquainted.
First, some general comments.
Except where noted, it is not a good idea to eat mushrooms raw. Some retain toxins, and bacteria can grow in the growing matter
clinging to roots; however, both are eliminated by cooking. Further, heating heightens mushrooms' flavor and digestibility.
At the store, choose mushrooms
by their fresh smell and tight gills. All mushrooms deteriorate fast, so do not plan on holding them more than a few days.
In most cases, the best way to store them is to keep them in a basket or container, with a paper or cloth towel on top. Damp
the towel if the mushrooms seem dry, but not too wet. Keep mushrooms away from strong odors. To freeze, convert them
to Duxelles, a classic French treatment that allows mushrooms to be used in a variety of ways, (see recipe below).
Most books tell you never
to clean mushrooms with water, but rather to brush gently as mushrooms can become waterlogged. However, Harold McGee, a renowned
culinary scientist, determined that after five minutes of soaking, a button mushroom would absorb only 1/16th tsp.
of water. Therefore, you can quickly rinse mushrooms to remove dirt faster and effectively.
In general, cook mushrooms
as soon as possible after cutting, as mushrooms weep, (mushrooms are 90% water). If cooking mushrooms alone, start them under
low heat, allowing the liquid to exude, thereby cooking the mushrooms in their own liquid.
A survey of two local
food stores here in Boston (Whole Foods and Star markets) showed the following specific types are often available:
White/Button/Cremini/Champignon/Portobellos: The most common mushroom in the U.S. is the white or button mushroom,
(called champignons on menus). Cremini mushrooms, which are also marketed as baby bella, golden Italian, Roman, or classic brown, is the brown variety of
the same species. White and brown button mushrooms should be similarly priced, and are interchangeable in recipes. The brown
or creminis do have a slightly richer flavor.
Portobellos are simply large cremini mushrooms. All of these are excellent all-purpose mushrooms, but if you don't
have a specific recipe for these mushrooms, try one of two techniques. Brush them with seasoned olive oil and then roast or
grill. Alternatively, slowly sauté them in olive oil, covered, until all of the liquid is absorbed. The larger ones make excellent
bases for stuffing or for pizza; use the stems, chopped, in the stuffing.
Chanterelles/Black trumpets, Golden, Horn of Plenty, Yellow-Footed: These mushrooms look like lilies and are also
an excellent all-purpose mushroom, but have a more delicate flavor than the cremini family. Use these with lighter dishes,
(chicken, fish) and use the gentle sauté approach. These can be eaten raw.
Enotitakes/Enoki/Winter Mushrooms: These look like a cluster of long branches topped with balls. The most delicate
and mild of the commonly available mushrooms, enotitakes are excellent raw. Substitute enotitakes where you might use bean
sprouts.
Morels: Chefs regard the wild morels as having great flavor, but consider domestic morels almost tasteless. Buy
these only in season, (early spring to summer). These are cone shaped mushrooms, with lots of nooks and crannies, and they
add a lot of flavor in cream sauces and soups.
Oyster/Trumpet: Easily cultivated and fast growing, these are now offered in a variety of colors. However, all
but the yellow variety have a very short shelf life, (smell to see if they have a sour aroma). They are tender and mild; the
best approach is to roast them, fry them, or add to a braise.
Porcini/Cepes/Bolete: Extremely flavorful, these are most often found in a dried form, and should be used sparingly.
They rehydrate beautifully and the liquid in which theyve been rehydrated can be used to add a lot of flavor to a soup, sauce,
or stock.
Shitake: Good shitakes are also strongly flavored and add a lot of flavor especially to vegetable and starch dishes,
(stir fries, risotto, pasta). They are good roasted, but do dry out easily, so if roasting or sautéing, make sure they are
well coated with oil or in liquid. The quality of shitakes can vary enormously; look for those with solid, thick caps that
have the cap margin curled under. Remove the stems, which can be tough.
Duxelles:
Duxelles is a classic
French mushroom preparation that is used in a variety of dishes. For example, Duxelles can be a stuffing for mushrooms, artichokes,
and tomatoes, they can be put on the top of toast or steak, or fill an omelet. The following is the classic way to prepare
Duxelles, as presented by Julia Child in Julia & Jacques Cooking at Home:
Duxelle Base:
12 oz. Mushrooms
1 T olive oil
3 T finely minced shallots
1 T unsalted butter
salt & pepper to taste
Enrichment:
2 T Port or Madeira
½ tsp. Flour
3-4 T heavy cream
Chop mushrooms in the
food processor, pulsing to a uniform crumbly texture.
Heat the oil and butter
in a large frying pan over medium heat, until sizzling. Add the shallots and mushroom and sauté, stirring, as the mushrooms
first sizzle, and then boil in the liquid they release. Cook until the liquid is evaporated, when the mushrooms will start
to sizzle again. Flavor with salt & pepper. Either continue as below or freeze for further use.
Stir in the Port or Madeira,
and cook until the liquid is absorbed. Sprinkle the flour over the mixture, and sauté one minute. Add the cream, and cook
for several minutes until thick. This mixture can be stored up to two days in the refrigerator.
