A Knife Primer:

My first column concerns knives, the most important tools in the kitchen. There is a reason that professional chefs carry their own knives from job to job. Good, sharp knives make mundane kitchen chores like chopping onions much easier, freeing the cook to spend more time on the creative aspects of cooking. Presentation also improves dramatically when you can chop uniformly or make simple garnishes.

The three most important things to learn about knives are: 1) to choose knives wisely, 2) keep them sharp, and 3) develop proper technique. Fundamentally, you only truly need two knives. A paring knife, usually 3 1/2" long, is necessary for peeling, coring, sectioning, and some mincing. But chefs mostly rely on a chef's knife, which can be anywhere from 6" to 12" long, and is characterized by a triangular blade, which can have various widths.

I find, though, that I am most comfortable with a battery of five knives. To the two knives described above, I would add a long, serrated knife for cutting bread, cakes, and light textured items. Additionally useful is a boning knife, which has a very flexible blade allowing the user to follow the contours of bones easily. Finally, I have become very fond of a 6" utility knife, which is perfect to chop onions - a very frequent task that is great to finish as fast as possible.

However, the most important knife is the chef's knife. This is the knife on which to spend money. The best advice, and it is crucial, is to go to a kitchen store, and try out several sizes and makes. You should concentrate on knives between 8" and 10", as the smaller knives will not give you enough blade to chop efficiently.

When trying out the knife, simulate proper chopping technique. Hold the knife comfortably, except do not extend the index finger along the top of the blade - this interferes with control. Keeping the tip of the knife always on the table, hold the knife with one hand and rest the flat palm of your other hand along the top of the blade. Simulate chopping up and down. The knife should feel comfortable and secure, and have good balance. The blade should be rigid and come down firmly and straight on the table. You will want the heaviest knife you can handle. The heavier the knife, the more it does the work for you and saves your muscles.

A chef's knife can be very expensive. The more expensive knives are forged as opposed to stamped. A forged knife has a bolster, i.e. a shoulder between the blade and the handle. This bolster gives the knife weight and balance, and protects the hand from slipping from the handle to the blade. A forged knife will also have a less flexible blade, preventing sliding on the cutting board. You can find good quality stamped knives, but if money is a concern, I believe you should invest in a good quality chef's knife, and look for bargains in the other knives.

The other knives should also be tested at the store; however, here you are looking primarily for a comfortable feel, especially with the paring knife. Do feel the flexibility of the boning knife; it should bend well. A serrated knife with good weight will make carving through a hearty loaf of bread easier. Also, it is difficult to sharpen a serrated knife, so make sure the knife is sharp out of the box.

If you currently have knives you like, make sure they are really sharp. Not only do sharp knives make cooking easier, but they are safer than dull ones, which can slip off food. To tell if your knives are sharp, hold a piece of paper by the edge and attempt to slice through it. If the blade will not slice, you need to sharpen your knives. A very good article on sharpening knives on the Web can be found at http://www.ameritech.net/users/knives/knives1a.htm. Otherwise, take them to be professionally sharpened and keep them sharp by using a steel before or after every use.